Wednesday, January 17, 2007

The Golden Rose Park

(Excerpt)

The juke box was playing Marvin Gaye and Wilson Pickett, the salt breeze eased in gentle from the marsh and overhead the Atlantic Ocean forever waved upside down on the hand-plastered ceiling. The beer was cold. The ribs were spicy. The company was warm and wise. It was the good life. It was the Golden Rose Park.

For more than three decades Gene and Clothilde Wiley's Golden Rose Park was legend on Hilton Head Island. Everybody went there from white boys looking for cool music and a good time, to Island natives and world traveled musicians. It didn't matter. Sophisticates and innocents, black and white, old-timers and newcomers mingled beneath the large old oak tree under which Gene Wiley claimed to have been born, and kicked back.

"That place was like home. We lived there," Isa Saunders told me when I called him at his business in Virginia Beach. "Man -- we had some good times there! It was like 'Cheers,' ya know? Everybody knew your name."

Yeah. It was like that. But better. As the memories pour fast and warm from the many patrons of the Golden Rose Park, everyone, regardless of age or current place says in one way or another the same thing. It was like home -- and Gene was the reason.

Eugene Wiley was born under or near the great oak in the community known as Grassland. Some folk call the area, off Union Cemetery Road, Grass Lawn these days, but binyah's, folk who've always been on the island, set it straight. "It was Grassland then and it still is," I was told. It certainly was when Gene was a child playing, hunting and working in the marshy fields and woods. At 15, eager for adventure and to see what lay beyond Hilton Head's edges, he ran off and joined the Navy, lying about his age. And Uncle Sam kindly picked him up and took him along. World War II was in swing.

Gene kept his eyes and ears open, did his part and stayed alive in different places around the world. When his time was up he settled in Brooklyn, New York. It was there he met Clothilde, who'd come from New Orleans. After several years in the city, though, the salt water in his veins started pulling him home. It does that. Just ask any Sea Island native. So Gene and Clothilde packed it in and came back to Hilton Head Island about 1959, and he built his magic park on the land he grew up on.

"Oh, it was beautiful there, just beautiful," Tom Barnwell, a local Island entrepreneur, told me. "It was tucked just so into the landscape with benches under the trees. And the barbecue was out of this world!"

A lot of folk raved about the barbecue. And the music. Hilton Head Island wasn't the hot spot it is now, but musicians would come from Savannah and roundabout to play at The Golden Rose Park. Good stuff, too. Cars would be parked in the fields until almost sunrise while folk laughed and ate and drank and danced. And listened to Gene hold court.

Tuesday, May 02, 2006

What's Love Got to Do With It?

“How do you do all this stuff?” Ebony asked. She was leaning against the island in my kitchen looking at some hand-painted tiles I’d left on the table amidst the debris of my family’s daily lives – school books, dirty glasses, unopened mail, stale bread crumbs. “You write, too, right?” she said.
“Yeah,” I said. “I do some of this and some of that.” I shoved a crusty pan away from the sleeve of her sweater.
“I write,” she said, “but it’s hard when you don’t feel like it. Do you always feel like it?”
“No,” I said. “I just do it anyway. Like a job.”

Our conversation made me think of Tina Turner. No. Really. In 1993, on almost every radio station in the country, Tina’s rough, burning voice howled, “What’s Love Got to Do With It?” It’s the question of a cynic: someone too wounded or too ignorant to embrace the deeper sensibilities; a bottom liner; somebody with a capitalist’s soul. I felt sorry for any one who had been hurt so deeply that they locked their heart in long-term storage and swallowed the key. I believed then, as I do now, that Love is at the crux of everything. After all: “What the World Needs Now is Love Sweet Love.” “Love Makes the World Go ‘Round.” “Love is a Many Splendored Thing.” Even Rumi said, “Let the Beauty you Love be what you do.” I decided several years ago to do what I love every day. Life’s too short, after all. And if I turn out to be one of those lucky ones who lives into her 100’s (which is my plan), I’ll have had a great time. I’m a great big old Love cheerleader (“give me an ‘L’ ….” )

But sometimes it doesn’t matter. I mean, sometimes I don’t feel the love for the things that I love. The thought of sitting in front of a blank page freezes my mind as blank as the screen. The alarm goes off, signaling it’s time to wake up and head to the studio, and I just lie there because it’s cold and dark outside and my work isn’t working and I don’t know what to do next or even why I’m doing it. The workshop I was planning seems inane and nobody will come anyway. Why in the world didn’t I finish my biology degree? A writing major? What was I thinking? And that’s when I have to embrace Tina’s song. What do my feelings have to do with it? There are days and even weeks when I don’t feel like it. So what. It’s time to write. Write anyway. Paint in the cold and dark. The sun will come up. It’s not about the feeling. It’s about the choice.

I tell Ebony, “I can’t wait for the feeling.” That’s how I do all this stuff. That, and my ability to ignore dirty dishes until there’s nothing left to eat off of. Eventually they’ll get washed. But right now, I’ve got work to do.

The Flag In My Neighbor's Yard

2002

There is a huge Confederate Flag waving from my neighbor’s front lawn. I mean huge. Must-have-special-ordered-it huge. Gigantic. You can see it the second you turn at the corner by the city ballpark. The lush, green soccer field is teeming with little children in bright red and blue and orange uniforms. They kick a black and white ball across the grass while their parents yell encouragement and over them, glowing red like the backdrop of a Radio City Music Hall show, is the flag on a hand constructed wooden structure, swaying in the breeze. The Stars and bars used to hang in the place of honor from a pole by their front door. But it’s overshadowed, now, by its radical cousin, which rises insistently from its frame in the middle of the front yard. It demands to be seen. It is making a statement. I just don’t know what it is.

You see, these are more than just neighbors. We’ve known each other for years. These are the folk I’ve shared day-to-day banalities with and the quirky twists of daily living. Mrs. Waring, arthritic and diabetic, barely able to catch her breath from her front door to the mail box, hand-crocheted queen-sized blankets for each of my children when they were born. When she could no longer walk across the street, we’d stop in to visit her. Once when her feet, insensitive due to the diabetes, were accidentally burned in a hot bath, my grandmother went across the street to help dress and bandage them. When the burns wouldn’t heal she went back into the hospital. She didn’t come back that time. We missed her.

Two of the grandchildren are the same age as our children. My husband and I commiserated when the second granddaughter was born with a congenitive heart disease. And we prayed together for her recovery when the surgeons opened her tiny little chest. She’s fine now, though small for her age.

Mr. Waring is an old WWII vet. Every morning around 6:00 a.m. before he retired from his job, I would hear his old sedan beeping as he backed out of the driveway. Once he retired I’d still see him daily, patrolling the neighborhood, his large belly in its thin undershirt hanging low over his pants, held up with suspenders. “How you doin’ today, Mr. Waring?” I’d ask whenever I saw him. “If I was any better, I’d be dancin’ a jig!” he’d say every time. Even when he’d buried his eldest daughter. Even when his wife died. Even when his own health began to fail. “See you later, Mr. Waring.” “Have a great day today and a better tomorrow!” he’d reply. Each time. A cheerful man.

His son resembles a big bear. I’d see him sometime down on the waterfront with a shrimp net, his dingy shirt stretched to the limit of its cotton fibers, playing hide and reveal with the hairy mountain of his stomach. Hair poking through the holes on his back. Grime on his hands and on his face over his beard. But he was warm and friendly whenever we met. His wife was straight out of a Flannery O’Connor novel. Bland, blond, a little blank. But neighborly all the same. We loaned them our little Chevette for a while when their car was stolen from a local parking lot. They’d stop by our porch and we’d talk about our kids.

The daughter Karen was the one my kids really loved. They even called her Aunt Karen like her nieces did. Talk about affectionate. Whenever Karen saw one of us in public she would stop what she was doing and wrap us in a hug, even in the check-out line at Wal-Mart where she worked in the plant and yard care department. No matter what, she loved to see us and we could count on a hug whether we wanted one or not. Karen was the one who brought over birthday presents or walked Grandma’s dog when she was ill or who watered the garden when we were away. She once told me that they had never lived close to colored people before but we were the nicest neighbors she could ever have. I accepted that in the spirit in which it was offered. We thought they were pretty nice too. Even when we moved to a larger house in a nearby neighborhood, we maintained our relationship. We still owned the house across the street and the Waring’s still looked out for it. And no matter where she saw us, Karen still greeted us with a hug.

So, yes, we were good neighbors, if not best friends. We respected each other and looked out for each other in the way that good neighbors do. So I did not know what to feel when I turned the corner and saw the flag, so big and so bright it could not be missed.

In South Carolina that flag has many meanings. As the battle to remove it from the State Capitol heated up, they began to proliferate: on bumper stickers, lapels, flag poles. For some it represents slavery, oppression, racism, intolerance. For others it is the heritage of their ancestors, States rights, old family tales. And for some, I assume, just a reason for a battle. Any old reason would do.

All I can say clearly is what it means to me. What it feels like. My breath always catches when I see it. My pulse jumps. The feeling is fear. It is visceral. I have to make a conscious effort not to recoil. I’ve heard the arguments, “Heritage, not Hate.” When my daughter asked me what the battle was about I tried to be even-handed in my explanations. To talk about history and loss from both perspectives. But my body knows differently and will not succumb immediately to my logic. I am wary of approaching homes with the flag flying or drivers whose cars boldly bear it. I do not know who they are. I do not know what they see when they see me. I am braced for rejection or antagonism and must foster my energy to hide my reaction. When I can, I avoid such situations. I try to live Confederate Flag free as much as possible. But this is the Waring’s house. My neighbor’s flag. I’m not sure what to do, because I know these people. Did they become different people when they hoisted the banner over their yard? Did I become a different person when I saw it?

I hadn’t seen any of the Warings for a few months before the flag went up and more time passed in which I didn’t encounter them. The flag on their lawn still occupied a corner of my mind, though, like a prod from an aching tooth or a dull headache. One day, as I was rushing through Walmart to buy a few things for my shop, I decided to pick up some new plants. As I was heading out the backdoor of the garden section, my cart heaped high with potting soil and geraniums, I ran into Karen. My heart skipped. “Hi Karen, how are you?” I asked. I always do.

“I’m good.” She said, “How are you and Ron and the kids?”
“We’re fine,” I answered.
“Well, tell them hello for me.”

“I will,” I responded. “And give your Dad my regards.” She didn’t hug me. For the first time in years she didn’t hug me. I moved past her to the parking lot, pushing my cart into the hot Carolina sun. The thing is, I don’t know who held back. Did she? Or did I?

The Opposite of War Isn't Peace, It's Creation!

I am a “Rent”–head. I‘ve joined the ranks of those obsessed to some degree with the Broadway musical “Rent.” I am late to this group having missed the show’s inception and long run in New York and having had no interest in the touring groups, which brought Jonathan Larson’s musical to a theater near me.

What I knew about the production – addicted, ill, bohemian 20-somethings with no rent money – seemed to have little to do with me (40-something, married, soccer mom with a van full of kids, community visibility and a couple of mortgages). But on a recent vacation to celebrate my 20th anniversary my husband and I went to the movies. “Rent” was playing. We saw it. I was hooked.

I asked my daughter to buy me the sound track for Christmas. I sang along full voice while house cleaning. I played it in my headphones while working in my studio. The sound track to “Rent” became the soundtrack for my own life. I’m in deep. “No day like today” rang in my ears as I packed my art bag to begin a garage door mural that had been requested months before. Workmen repairing a building on a neighboring lot watched me curiously as I plied my paintbrush while belting out “Take Me Baby or Leave Me!” I stood back to survey my work as “La Vie Boheme” pumped through my head and then I heard the line, almost thrown away, “The opposite of war isn’t peace, it’s creation!” And something clicked. I wasn’t painting hummingbirds on a dilapidated garage, I was balancing the earth. While destruction seemed to be spinning in ever expanding spirals in war zones around the world, I was using my energy to create something. It wasn’t a mural, it was an act of peace. How is that for an epiphany!

So this has become my new mantra: Create Something. Create a painting, a story, a song, a garden, a business plan, a soufflé, a family. Write a letter, hum a jazz riff, throw clay on a wheel, hold a board meeting in a garden, dig a goldfish pond, toss cilantro in your omelet, have a vision and bring it to life. Create Something.

It’s not that hard. Dream a dream. It doesn’t matter how big. Make it a reality. You can do it. Really. I can help if you like. After all, I’ve got my own soundtrack.